I love the look of oil but want the benches to be useable and fear some ruined pants with using oil. I know this is outside your wheelhouse but wondered if you’ve even heard of anything related? hi mark can i use the wipe on method using the epifanes? Would a 50/50 mixture hold up well, or do you or anyone else have suggestions? Any suggestions beyond the sage advice you have already posted? The table has been stained with a reactive stain for a weathered/driftwood rustic look. I have had good luck over the years while restoring antiques, after replacing missing feet or other parts by using spar varnish and some flat black oil base paint, then using a large old soldering iron that allowed me to create the proper alligatoring. Thanks for the very detailed response, compacted into just a few paragraphs. At a certain point, adding more coats doesn’t improve performance. i am trying to protect my workbench which ive built out of redwood. A varnish is usually clear and transparent, and it will harden along the outer layer of your wood. knotty hickory is what I am using. It gets splashed with water and the paint keeps coming off. This is a very protective film finish that should last a good long time. Stopped showing Woodworks?!?!? Hello, I have a walnut slab that I’d like to use as an outdoor tabletop. Have a horse barn that I just put an addition on. As long as you prep the doors adequately, you should be able to apply more gel stain and then Epifanes. But if I know anything about how these finishing companies work, there’s probably something available much cheaper that isn’t labels “for artists.”. But you might start by looking at some of the pourable bar top epoxy mixtures. Happened upon your article, we are about to start a huge project, refinishing original fir-wood floors in the 1924 house we just purchased. A very small amount it is. Any advice you can give will be much appreciated. I do not like a gloss finish but prefer the hand-rubbed luster finish. Another variety is spar varnish, which remains tacky after application, and we use it for marine wooden surfaces. Not the cheapest, but seems to be holding up, give it a shot if its not to late! We use mineral spirits or turpentine to dilute it. I am refinishing an old church pew for use as seating on our deck. This is specifically formulated for marine exposure and generally contains phenolic and alkyd resin, as well as Tung oil for its components. Do you think that would be the best product for the bathroom window trim? The first one-part, high-gloss marine spar varnish that can be rapidly recoated without sanding between coats. Could you please advise. Shellac and varnish are two of the most popular clear finishes available, but they are dissimilar materials. Sounds like a good idea to me. If you already know you want a fairly thick finish, then you should consider using a brush. If you don’t go with a film, you’re looking at something that needs to be renewed routinely, which my not be the amount of work you want to do. I’m working on a door with full sun exposure. welcome your thoughts… I stopped watching a long time ago because I had seen all the episodes so I totally understand. Having kept tropical fish in the past, I know how sensitive they can be so I am not prepared to even make a recommendation for a finish that would survive those conditions, while being safe for your finish. We want to pull up the subfloors hand expose the beautiful original floors underneath. As a result, the finish lasts longer. Richard, David “retired” from PBS in 2001 so all shows are reruns. Or if you think some of your followers could benefit from this information, please share it with them. And the name “spar varnish” comes from the boating world, where the long wooden poles that support the sails are know as spars. You might also consider sealing with CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer), then coating with Epifanes. that might be my first suggestion. Can I merely add a small quantity of, say, MinWax oil stain? Hey Greg. One thing I LOVE about a varnish finish (which I rub out with pumice and then rottenstone followed by wax) is that it is so durable; I love to entertain and never use a tablecloth, and as long as I pick up glasses after the last guest leaves, I never have marks on my existing table. Southern exposure near Puget Sound this location sees a lot of weather (sun, wind, rain…). Hello, I’d just keep it consistent and stick with the Cabot. It repels any moisture and seems very resilient. we are building a teardrop trailer and would like to have a stained wood finish for the side walls (the top will be covered with aluminum). The seat will be hardwood. Thank you for your help. I will be using an Old Masters gel stain. Your email address will not be published. Hard to say if they will be “as good” but they should work quite well. Probably a good option for your application. I assume that one needs to first remove the epoxy coat. Now I am thinking using it on part of our oak flooring at terrace doors and an area I put my potted plants at in the winter. I doubt if the $12 brush is actual badger hair. We do not use spar varnish on furniture. I would like to put something stronger that would last longer than 2 years. Good Morning, We just purchased a home that has age and distressed pine flooring that is 3 and 1/8″ wide. I don’t feel that Helmsman is the best varnish for the job, but it’s a little late to change it. I’m planning to thin Epifanes with mineral spirits by 50% and wipe on 3 coats. My question is about coating my bay window sill. Now, when are you going to post video from your David Marks visit? Do those products not work to your liking? But there is humidity. The bar top will be outdoors and since I normally build indoor furniture, I need some advice. Perhaps the stain itself will have UV inhibitors and other additives that will help the stain keep its color. By thinning the varnish it will leave a smoother finish without unsightly brush strokes. Please help!! The painters explanation was that VOC rules in Arizona only allowed him to use crappy varnish. Spar varnish is an older formulation of varnish vs. Urethane Varnish is a modern formulation of a tough clear coating used primarily on wood surfaces exposed to outdoor conditions. If that’s the case, I would just start applying your oil/varnish blend. A note on spar: Bob Flexner has stated several times that household spar varnishes typically have very little in the way of UV inhibitors. I have just finished staining the top rail of my deck railing with a Behr water basing stain. But that doesn’t mean every spar varnish is made with phenolic resins. If you don’t mind a thick shiny finish, then I would follow the directions on the can for the most durable surface possible. What happens if SPAR VARNISH is applied over SHELLAC ? Will the clear varnish produce a shine or satin look? I always give honest opinions, findings, and experiences on products. Anyway. But how that affects long-term durability, re-coating, and appearance is not something I can really comment on. The boards get a pretty good bit of abuse so I need to put something durable over them. One of the best outdoor finishes out there is Epifanes. If you want to apply wax, you certainly can but it really doesn’t offer much in the way of protection. I guess I will try it and let you know. So a spar varnish needs to be one that can withstand the rigorous conditions of seafaring life. The chairs have discolored as well. Nearly all modern varnish contains a few basic components: oil, resin, and a solvent. Do I lightly sand between coats? But now I’m worried that the Spar will yellow and that it won’t be safe for a food surface (I won’t be cutting on it, but still). I am not all that experienced in that area so my frame of reference is a bit off. Considering using something indoor/outdoor use and epiphane varnish seems to be the answer…any insight? The abrasion method is quite nice because it also smooths the surface beautifully. How would you finish with regards to gloss. Other differences are found in the actual application of the products themselves. So if you are coating over top of poly, I would sand the surface thoroughly to rough it up, then apply coats of the varnish/turp mix (no oil). A trip to my local West Marine shows that theirs is $35 a quart. One of my local PBS stations has started running The Woodsmith Shop but them, and Scott Phillips’ show (Pocket screws and Gorilla Glue! I have five stalls that I stained and need to finish with urethane or varnish.The original stalls were stained with minwax cherry stain, then 2-3 coats of Helmsman semi gloss spar urethane was applied. Thanks for your expertise!! My question is would this be better to use verses a polyurethane finish? I was going to sand it as best I could and re-apply a better product to save it from the same fate. It will be exposed to shower spray frequently. My first and best advice is to consult with a flooring professional. Cabot which is an oil and Varathane (Rustoelum Product) which is water based. I did a chainsaw carving and just put on a poly which didn’t do much, I watched a chainsaw carver on tv recommend a finish of 1/3 linseed, 1/3 mineral spirits, and 1/3 heavy duty marine varnish. I did check for asbestos. This article was inspired by a question from K Sanchez who writes: “What is the the difference between spar varnish and regular varnish?”. http://i58.tinypic.com/290xwuo.jpg Either way, you can always add a more protective finish later if need be. I suppose it could be sanded but the sharp cabinet scraper is the best tool. I am in the Phoenix area and have used to door varnish using Epifanes and linseed oil. Hello, I’m an artist and i’m busy painting my first wooden patio table with one of my designs. I don’t know about everybody else but I get tired of watching him build the same thing over an over. I am converting an old dresser to a bathroom vanity. Any opinion on epoxy finishes? There are many clear wood finishes on today’s market. Marc, Thank you so much for this information. Just click the image. Much like the situation with oils, the better product is also the most expensive. And most times the brand I reach for is Epifanes. Any product claim, statistic, quote or other representation about a product or service should be verified with the manufacturer, provider or party in question. ;-). This is a very old pine floor, and I would like a finish that would be durable to scratching etc. Can regular urethane be applied on top of soar urethane? So – am I right so far? The Wood Whisperer is proudly sponsored by brands that Marc trusts. Thxxxx j9, Well if you don’t an amber hue, your options are fairly limited. Sure thing. As for woodworking shows, I’m a relatively new woodworker and I learn something every time I watch Wood Works and New Yankee Workshop. Hey Alex. We are building a Water Wheel – would you recommend Epifanes for a pond with fish. The SDR on the horizontal surfaces exposed to sun and snow turned gray and started to crack this year so I resanded and reapplied the SDR. Hey Travis. And I would only sand after the second coat and every coat thereafter. Sometimes referred to generically, lacquer and varnish are not the same thing. I would like to use the plain 1 x 4’s and properly seal them without yellowing. Not sure just how well a polyurethane varnish would adhere to those various materials. Spar varnish will be quite flexible and should do ok on a surface that has some movement. You really have to go with water-based formulas. Spar urethane can be applied to the wood using a natural bristle brush to seal the wood. Your answer is right in the article above in the Conclusion. If you think the spar would serve our purposes, do you think we can just scuff sand the semi-gloss water based poly, clean, and then apply the spar? I have a question about Resins. I’m about to refinish a late 18th century mahogany table with single board sections; it is very dense and heavy mahogany. how to make your own outdoor oil/varnish blend, http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ.....MOKFZYIR6T, http://www.rockler.com/product.....;sid=AFN86, http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....op-finish/, http://www.oldhouseguy.com/my_restoration, http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....yurethane/. . Because of this, I chose what I thought were the best-quality materials and paints for the job. do you recommend using a marine varnish to weather proof and protect the hardwood plywood that the side walls are made from? The one recommended in this article should do nicely. What is a marine varnish? Marc, I am trying to refinish a large round table. Unlike polyurethane clear finishes which become brittle, crack and peel when used outdoors, this marine quality varnish remains flexible and absorbs the expanding and What would you recommend here? I know many folks who use varnish on their musical instruments, so it should do quite well. It was coated with some type of varnish which is now yellowed and peeling. Until recently the DVR would pick up usually 4-5 episodes of both New Yankee Workshop and Woodworks, granted they were the same episodes over and over a lot of the time, but now there’s one ep of NYW a week, no Woodworks at all. The term comes from the days when spars were made of wood and ships were at sea. Apply up to 5 coats in 1 day. The surface will dry out from time to time and you can just easily apply more mineral oil. I’m not comfortable making that declaration myself when it comes to children. I have considered the “splintering” method of filling the gaps, but wondered what you thought of using a quality spar varnish? It is called Max CLR HP and has a nice solids content. The original wood has remained in every room of the house, in the 60’s a subfloor was laid in the kitchen, entry, bathrooms and laundry room and lovely lynoluem squares were put down. This improves the longevity of the system keeping moisture out of the layers beneath the surface. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely our own. Can I put a varnish over this even though a urethane was on it before? Thanks for your help! I am building a 4′ x 3′ bar top for a customer of mine. So I do think that’s your best bet. Can I use Epifanes Clear Varnish for all coats and then sand with 0000 steel wool to accomplish this, or possibly the Clear Varnish with a final coat of the Woodfinish Matte product? To this end, a traditional spar varnish contains a high ratio of resins to solvents. ?” Also, here in St. Louis/Arnold Missouri, we have a Home Depot and Lowes, but I don’t see that they carry it. If she were prepping food on the surface, I would have given different advice. But if you want that type of finish, you don’t have many options. Honestly I don’t use paint much myself. and do i need to sand the entire threshold down to bare wood or just rough it up where the finish is not holding up…. Again, a pro could probably give you much better advice on this. In the past I replaced a bass boat deck plywood and coated with 1st linsead oil, 2nd, 50/50 linsead oil and spar varnish, 3rd coat spar varnish (carpet on top of that) Historical work had put waterproof wall materials on what are old tongue and groove walls. But if you do decide to try this, looking into marine varnishes as they are going to be higher quality than the spar varnish you can get at Home Depot. We will not be cutting on the countertops. I will obtain some sort of cover in the future, yet it will be exposed to moisture from time to time. Dick. Hey Marc, does spar varnish provide any extra water-proofing over poly? What would you recommend? One thing about spar marine varnish is that you will likely need to reapply it regularly as it can often flake off or chip.The word ‘spar’ is relative to marine, in that it is used as a term for the mast or staff on a ship, so spar varnish should be ideal for marine use, as that is essentially what it is designed for. For the best results, you want it to penetrate deeply and your oil based finishes are definitely the best for that. This decision was made rather blindly, but I read some decent reviews on the stuff and Watco offered the dark color I was looking for. I’m a scout leader from Queensland Australia. I have read that a good badger hair brush is required for the best possible finish. However, there are millions of products and services on the web, and I only promote those products or services that I would use personally. Bob. We need to varnish (preferably spray it on) but we are afraid of any shine on it. Especially inhibitors that will be useful for a clearcoat application? In order to protect your wooden vessel or accessories from the damaging effects of water, it can often be necessary to apply some sort of coating to act as a barrier. Help! For folks who are fairly new to finishing and want precise control over the final thickness of finish, I recommend diluting by 50% with mineral spirits and wiping. Unfortunately, I don’t. I read your article on shellac under poly. Someone pointed me in your direction and the local hardware stores think I am insane for asking for such a specific product… Help! Epifanes is a good option yes. We’re putting in maritime pine flooring and would very much appreciate your advice on spar/ varnish. Hi Marc I’ve heard cedar turns grey over time, what can we do to prevent this if we like the red color the wood already has? The builder stained it and it lasted for not even 2 years due to sun exposure. I originally used spar varnish on it in 2004. This varnish is typically sturdy, resistant to harsh weather conditions and practically applied to unpainted wooden spots, particularly on vessels. Any ideas on what I did wrong? Assuming there is no wax on the surface, you can simply sand the surface lightly with 220 grit paper and then wipe away the dust with a clean rag soaked in mineral spirits. From the sounds of it, there’s nothing left….. Thanks in advance. Our painter has suggested Helmsman Spar- what do you think of this product? https://kayakguru.com/how-to-paint-kayak. oil- or water-based wood finish that is mainly a plastic resin that hardens when applied on the surface :) And if you want non-yellowing, you should probably look into water-based materials like General Finishes Exterior 450. or any other ideas? But I don’t usually like a real thick film so 3-4 coats wiped on is usually a good compromise for me. Willing to take time with this, and use the best varnish for this non-wood “craft” project. The gaps are not very deep, as it is tongue and groove flooring. Thanks. Spar varnishes are supposed to be more water-resistant than indoor polys. Even the epoxy might deteriorate over time but it should last quite a while. Looking forward to your response. A favorite subject since I have a boat and a home, both with brightwork and natural wood trim that gets hammered in intense sun. Oh Great Woodwhisperer… I desire hardness but also a little bit of UV protection. Now 15 years later the stain in the wood seems to be fading. Many thanks. What is the acronym for the list of ingredients for a product? ;). The most common oil used to make varnish is linseed oil. I do think it will do the trick. Lacquer and varnish are glossy coatings that are applied over wood and other surfaces, to have a protective covering that also looks aesthetically pleasing. Needs gloss think the grout sealer companies would have something decent on the type of so. 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